Sunday 6 December 2015

Dec. 2nd Peradeniya

Met up with Tolo in Kandy, and had a general catch up since we last saw each other in Leon.

Blogs are going to be infrequent due to problems saving the draught blog prior to publishing

Nov. 30th 2015 Sri Lanka

I arrived in Sri Lanka to rain. I thought the monsoon was over ! On leaving the airport I was told by the army of tuktuk drivers that the bus I wanted had left etc etc.
Benjamin my host for the 1st 2 nights had told me where to get the bus I needed, so after asking directions a couple of times and a 1km walk I took the 3 hour ride, unsure if the conductor understood where I wanted to get off. After a short wait in the rain and a call to Benjamin, a tuktuk arrived and delivered me to his home.
After meeting the family and a meal of string hoppers and curry, I necked a couple of valium and slept through to 7.30 next morning. My way of getting past jet lag.

Friday 30 October 2015

Oct 28th Santander

I left the refugio to find a beautiful day. God it felt good to be alive. Santander, it's sheltered harbour and sandy beaches, green hills, and mountains beyond with warm sunshine. What a contrast with Santiago !
What to do with the ferry not leaving until 9.30 in the evening ? Walk of course, and sight-see leisurely.
By 10a.m. I was in t-shirt and shorts and it got up to 25°
The problem with strolling for me is that my back was aching by mid afternoon.
I got onto the ferry and suddenly it's French prices for beer, twice the price of a a Spanish bar.
Farewell my beloved Spain. I'll hopefully be back in March to carry on walking the GR7.

Oct 27th Santander

Day 74

I probably have walked 1000 miles which was my goal. aka the Proclaimers ! ("I've walked 500 miles and I'll walk 500 more", or something like that)
I booked a coach to Santander, and a ferry to Plymouth. So in the morning after a prolonged breakfast and goodbyes with Anne as she walked on, I had a 9 hour coach ride to Santander.
It would've taken over 3 weeks to walk it.
Santander provided me with a Pilgrims refuge, as it's on the camino del norte. and a lively city. Lots of branches of the Bank of Santander !

Tuesday 27 October 2015

Oct 26th Santiago de Compostella

Day 73  

A rest day. Anne moved over to my hotel to share my room, and the cost of the room. Albergues are €12 here.
She was hungover, so had a bit of a kip, whilst I went to the cathedral for midday mass and the pilgrims blessing. It was a bit boring, after a wander round the catheral I went for a beer. It was raining and cool, no bueno ! No one was about so I wandered back to the cathedral just as the incense burner thing was being swung back and forth. It is very impressive and 6 men pull on a rope to get it swinging. It's what most people go to the mass for probably !
After a late lunch with Anne we chilled out in our room. It was raining steadily.
The weather forecast is for rain each day until next monday. I'm not walking to Finisterre in the rain.
The weather  for Barcelona is good and  a flight is only €110 return. mmm a few days there then walk to finisterre next week !
Hotels are expensive there and I'm not into hostels any more after the snorers.
After thinking on it for a few hours, I decided the most economic thing to do was finish my walk here. Blimey.
So it's a bus to Santander tomorrow and the ferry to Plymouth wednesday evening - my walks finished - rain stopped play for this fair weather walker.

Monday 26 October 2015

Oct 25th Santiago de Compostella

Day 72    14.3 miles    Total 951

Oh god ! it's the last leg into Santiago,it's the journey not the destination, that's so true. I fear it's going to be an anti-climax.
After my 1st coffee break I fall in behind a pair of American twats babbling back and forth 'holy Mary mother of god . . . .' I should have let them go on ahead, but no I very slowly pass them and it takes ages to get away from them. A while later I see Mary (is she mother of god ?), and have a good moan about the twats and she tells me she's into that stuff as she was brought up a catholic, oops !
22km to Santiago and it drags on a bit. At Monte do Gozo whilst having a coffee Mary arrives. I apologise for being offensive earlier, but she's cool about it. We walk into Santiago together and the place she's booked into is full, so I eventually find an old hostal with a double room for€30.
Then it's off to explore and get my pilgrims certificate. Near the cathedral a shout from Paul and Peggy who are so delighted to see me Peggy's in tears. After a beer together and getting my certificate from the pilgrims office, I wait and wander looking for Anne who I said I'd meet at 5pm. I don't see her and wander off and buy some roasted chestnuts and eat them on a bench.
I've seen loads of people I've met on the way today.
I decide to go for a beer and tapas, eventually diving into a likely looking bar, I sit down and just finish my1st tapas and look up, and who's talking to a waiter - Anne. She was sat back to back with me !
After lots of hugs I join her and her friend. She'd waited and wandered around by the cathedral looking for me for over an hour.
Her friend left to find her husband, and we were joined by a French-Canadian couple I knew, then a big Aussie guy and a Japanese woman. It was quite a celebration. Anne was so drunk that me and the Japanese woman had to get her to her hotel and into her room.

Sunday 25 October 2015

Oct. 24th Astrar

Day 71   20 miles   Total 936.7

Another large woman snored all night apart from the few times I woke her. I went downstairs to the kitchen and read for a bit, but movement sensitive lighting made sleep there impossible for me.
Come the morning I was wandering about packing up in a black mood.
It was raining lightly as I set off absolutely shattered in a world of my own. A call from Didi brought me back to the present, I'd walked past him and Fracoise without noticing them.
Talking with them and a stop for coffee brought me to being just tired.
After lunch I'd recovered and passed and was passed by Didi and Francoise a few times. As They were stopping before me, we saying goodbyes when Timo, (Finnish, poker guy),
We walked on together and went to a perfect albergue 700m off the route. We had the place to ourselves. Plenty of space to not be disturbed by snoring, a woodstove and lovely people.
I found a book in English by Eddie Rock - The Camino de Santiago, a sinners guide. What I've read so far makes it the most hilarious book I've read, ever.

Oct 23rd Melide

Day 70    17 miles    Total 916.7

I'm suprised that I don't see more people walking the camino, as this last 100km is said to be busy. I guess it's late in the year.
Lovely walking through countryside dotted with small farms.
There are no shortcuts as in France, the Camino stays on it's original route through Spain.
After passing through the town os Palais do Rei I had lunch in warm sun, then walked the afternoon along leafy paths, seeing only 3 other walkers
On walker, an Aussie, Annie, had Pacerpoles so we walked and talked ultralight backpacking all the way to Melide. She was delighted to meet another gear-geek. I was staying in Melide, she walked on.
Melide is where the Camino Primitivo joins the Camino Francais. It's said to be the lovliest camino as it comes over the mountains from the north coast.

Friday 23 October 2015

Oct 22nd Ventas de Naron

Day 69    14.6.miles   Total 899.7

As usual I was one of the last to leave the albergue, at 8.40 it was still before sunrise.
The walk was mostly along paths or alongside the road on unpaved tracks. It was high level walking until near Portomarin, where I descended into fog. It is a town that was rebuilt on the hill above when the Rio Miño was dammed.
After crossing the high bridge I met up with a french couple (Didi and Francoise) I've been seeing most days since the ascent in the rain to O Cerbrio.
Didi suffers vertigo badly.and had to get a lift in a car across the bridge !
After an initial steep climb from the river the camino ran parallel to a road, then followed a quiet country road to Ventas de Naron, where I decided to spend the night.
Didi and Francoise appeared at dinner time, and we shared a table. They told me I was their camino angel, as I always appear when they need guidance - I'm not so sure of that, but I've helped them a couple of times.
The night was a disaster, as there were 2 champion snorers near me. The guy next to me was bad, but the other snorer was so deep as to almost be physical, and when I went to shake them it was a woman. There was no where to go as there were movement sensitive lights in the corridor and outside was illuminated by a street light.

Thursday 22 October 2015

Oct 21st Morgade

Day 68   16.6 miles   Total 885.1

After a roadside walk for a couple of miles from Samos I took a quiet alternative route to Sarria. It was longer but so lovely. I only saw 2 people, Nicholas a 77 year old American who is curious about everything, and Betsy. Betsy was almost in tears with happiness when I met her, stood admiring an old chestnut tree. She was blissed out, bless her !
Sarria is a big starting point for many pilgrims as they can get their certificate at Sangiago for walking the minimum distance of 100km.
I walked straight through and stopped for coffee at a bar at the next village.
I reached the lovely albergue at Morgade. Whilst talking to Ashlee, an American woman with shin splints, Mary (Teignmouth) arrived, it had been a while since I'd seen her.
A communal meal followed with 20 people from 8 countries. It's what I enjoy about the camino, especially as the common language in these circumstances is English !

Oct 20th Samos

Day 67    14 miles   Total 868.5 miles

The rain had gone but dawn found me up in the cloud still. Glimpses of lovely views, but it was only after dropping a few hundred feet that there was any views.
Galicia is beautiful, so green, dairy country, the aroma of cows at every farm.
After Triasatela and a little road walk, the path followed the river on proper paths until Samos.
Today was the most lovely walking on the Camino so far !
Samos is dominated by a huge monastry. The albergue attached to the monastry has existed for more than 1000 years.
I went for a smaller place. There were only 4 of us staying there.
In the evening I went for dinner at a restaurant with Betsy, a Dutch woman who lives in Eire. We met up with Alan and his Canadian companions, who I've gradually got to know over a few weeks.
For dinner I had Trutas, (6) small trout that were rolled in flour and fried, ala Sprats, wonderful.

Tuesday 20 October 2015

Oct 18th Ruitelan

Day 65    13 miles   Total 844.5

There are 3 routes from Villafranca, 2 high level routes and a road walk. With rain forcast for the afternoon, I took the shorter high level route, 8 miles.
A very steep ascent straight out of the town, levelled off after a 1000'.
The 1st mile or 2 was through burnt trees and scrub, the smell of it still in the air, but already green shoots were appearing at the base of burn shrubs.
The burnt area gave way to cultivated Chestnut woodland. Lots of people filling sacks with chestnuts.
A steep descent brought me back to the roadwalk.
My heels were not happy on the hard surface and I booked into the albergue Potala at Ruitelan at 2pm.
After an afternoon in the bar opposite, I had the communal meal at the albergue.
Each time I woke during the night I could hear the rain on the slates above me, it was very cosy

Oct. 19th Alto do Poio

Day 66   10 miles   Total 854.5

The day started with loud classical music to wake everybody, horrible.
The nights rain had eased when I set off. I decided to walk the road alternative rather than a muddy walk through the forest. It's so green now, plenty of rain as I approach Galicia, Atlantic weather.
It was almost 2000' ascent up to O Cebriero.
At the 1st village coffee stop I found I'd dropped my glasses on the way. Whilst writing my blog a Danish family walked in with my glasses.
The rain came down hard. Some people are so ill-prepared for bad weather. I had my brolly to keep me dry, just my feet got wet. None the less, I stopped a village before the one I'd targeted. A wood stove blazing and hot radiators convinced me.
The albergue didn't have a good write-up, but plain homecooked Spanish food and not crowded made it for me

Sunday 18 October 2015

Oct 17th Villafranca del Bierza

Day 64   12 miles   Total 831.5

Walking on quiet roads to Cacabelos for my 1st break, where I saw Alan, an English guy I've seen regularly for 2 or 3 weeks, and my companions from last night. I took an hours break here, then walked to my destination through hilly countrside and vineyards. Bierzo wine is very nice.
Villafranca del Bierzo is a large village with many restaurants and bars, and 2 rivers. Lots of old houses
The albergue had a well equipped kitchen, and I cooked my own dinner. So many albergues recently have restaurants attached, and no kitchen.
After an early dinner I went for a walk and met up with Steve (American guy from last night), and his wife, who's name I forget.
Meeting so many people it's often hard for me to remember names.

Saturday 17 October 2015

Oct 16th Columbrianos

Day 63   14 miles    Total 819.5

I couldn't not go fast off of the mountain, a rough path and I just flowed to Molinseca.
After coffee break in the village it was level walking on concrete pavement. Ooh my battered heels. I regretted my fast 3000' descent. After a couple of miles I took the longer alternate route into Ponferrada.through
Ponferrada is a large ugly modern town. I sat at a bar for coffee and to rub foot balm into my heels, then walked the town. 3 miles later I booked into an Albergue.
I met a Costa Rican woman and an American guy, and had a good evening with them.

Friday 16 October 2015

Oct. 15th El Acebo

Day 62   18 miles   Total 805.5

The sky was just getting light in the east when I left Sta Catalina. The walk continued on a gravel track parallel with the road. It was very cold and there was frost. I stopped for coffee and to warm up at El ganzo. My wet socks that were hanging off my pack to dry had frozen.
After the village of Rabinal del Camino, the path started rising and suddenly after so long with not much energy, I was energised.
Good bye meseta and f-ing boring walking.
People say the meseta is very interesting or it is the spiritual section of the walk. Bullshit, to help them get through a crap section of the Camino.
I was so happy to be going uphill. I stopped at a medieval bar in Foncebon for a quick coffeeand carried on to the abandoned village of Manjarin.
I'd thought to spend the night here as the very basic albergue was run by a character called Thomas the Templar. He even dresses as a Knight Templar.
The place was filthy with dogs and cats everywhere, it was early and I was energised, so I carried on.
At over 5100' I reached the highest point on the camino, with views of Ponferrada in the valley beyond.
A descent of over 1300' brought me to El Acebo. I read in my guide of an albergue in a new hotel on the edge of the village that was only €3 more a night than the one's in the village. Reckoning it wouldn't be so crowded I booked in. It's really smart and upmarket.
Wonderful views, more staff than guests and I had an 8 bed dorm. to myself.

Thursday 15 October 2015

Oct. 14th St Catalina de Somoza

Day 61   14.5 miles   Total 787.5

As soon as I left the village the landscape changed, gently rising, uncultivated bitsof land and patches of woodland.
After a few miles I came across a small refreshment stall run by an elegant woman who was totally blissed out in the nicest way. Everything was free and organic. It was open 365 days of the year, 24 hours a day.
I had very little energy today, so it was a bit of a plod.
Astorga was a.large town and many people were making it an overnight stay. I carried on.
After Astorga the camino enters the isolated area of the Maragateria, scrubby and wooded.
I was pleased to arrive at Sta Catalina. The albergues were both modern, I chose the one with the better menu. I'm.over pilgrims menu's which are good value but similar, and had bacon, eggs and salad.

Wednesday 14 October 2015

Oct. 13th Villares de Orbigo

  Day 60   16.5 miles   Total 773

The day started cold and clear, lovely after 2 cloudy wet days.
The path was parallel to the main road between Leon and Astorga, lots of traffic.
I was delighted to see an end of the Meseta ahead. Today though I walked through the Paramo, bleak plateau. It would have been in last weeks winds. I had to use my brolly during the afternoon as the sun was so strong.
Villages and coffee stops every few miles, along with walking slowly made for an enjoyable walk. I was passed by many people. This cold is hanging on.
Some people who passed me must have started their Camino in Leon, or needed to get to their finish point, they walked with a sense of urgency and looked prime candidates for blisters or injuries.
Even strolling along I arrived at Villares de Obrigo by 3pm.
The albergue is owned by a woman from Belgium, surrounding a central courtyard and beautifully restored.
There was only 4 of us staying here, a couple from Finland, and a guy from Brazil. We each had our own small dormitory. There was a communal meal that was superb.
I slept on the sofa on the upstairs veranda, my perfect place to sleep. I have fond memories of sleeping on veranda's in India and Nepal.
This albergue is the best place that I've stayed, so far.

Tuesday 13 October 2015

Oct. 12th Virgen del Camino

Day 59    4.5miles   Total 756.5

I slept outside, another guy and his dog also slept outside. It rained most of the night, It was lovely being warm and comfy breathing fresh air listening to the rain.
In the morning the rain had eased and Tolo, Bob and I went for breakfast together. Bob and I were meant to meet up with Jam, who was renting a flat for the coming night.
Tolo was meeting his friend who has been in an hotel in Astorga over the weekend.
The rain had stopped and the sky was lighter, so Bob and I decided to head on.
It was 4.5 miles of suburbs to Virgen del Camino, I was tired and decided to book into the albergue. It was closed so I got a room in a nearby hostal.
It was a national holiday and thr hostal was heaving, and I spent the afternoon drinking and eating tapas with the locals.

Monday 12 October 2015

Oct. 11th Leon

Day 58   8 miles   Total 752

I woke up after a couple of hours sleep, with the radiator next to my bed being hot. I remembered I'd left my washing on the line, and it was raining. I got up, took my sleeping bag to the lounge area, got my wet washing in and put it on the radiator, and left the snorers for a peaceful sleep.
It was a damp start for the walk into Leon, that turned to rain. Ah bless my brolly !
Leon was having a fiesta weekend, everywhere was full, so I had to book into the municipal albergue. very crowded....
Tolo was already there.
Lots of people everywhere. Tolo and I had excellent tapas wherever we went, no need for a meal today.

Sunday 11 October 2015

Oct. 10th Puente Villarente

Day 58   14.5 miles   Total 744

Today started warmer than the recent days. The camino was the same tedious gravel path alongside quiet country roads.
The 1st village, Reliegos, and coffee stop was over 8 miles. The bar I stopped at had walls covered in graffiti and the owner was a character.
The meseta gradually changes, and today there were a lot more trees in the landscape.
At Mansilla de las Mulas after crossing the river the path was beside a busy main road. I met up and walked the final mile into Puente Villarente with an interesting American guy, I'd talked to before, Tolo.
We booked into a smart albergue, and met up for the evening later.
He lives incredibly simply. just the small backpack he has here and a suitase of possesions in the USA at a friends house.
We were joined for the evening by an artist from Grenwich Village, Dawn. At the end of the evening she told us how mice it was to share her 50th birthday with us !
Tolo and I talked until after midnight back at the albergue.
There is so much of our past that is similar, especially India. It's rare to meet someone that I have so much in common with.

Oct. 9th El Burgo Ranero

Day 57   11miles    Total 729.5

I was the last one to leave the Albergue at 8.15, though some of the others could've stopped for breakfast. I'd made my own.
Cold again and a walk along a gravel path all the way to El Burgo Ranero. It was nice to see the Picos del Europa to the north.
I met up with the German guy at a cafe, I often see him at cafe's, but not elsewhere.
I'm booked into a Donativo. The volunteer hospitalero had a go at me for not being in the bed he'd alloted to me. Being a volunteer often makes these people officious.

Friday 9 October 2015

Oct. 8th Sahagun

Day 56   15.6 miles   Total 718.5

Cristal clear and no wind made for a cold start to the day. As the sun rose higher in the sky a breeze built, luckily a tail-wind. It stayed cold until after midday even with full sun. It's over 3000' above sea level on the meseta.
After a couple of coffee stops and with Sahagun in sight I caught up with Jam, a Canadian, and met Bob another Canadian I'd only seen before.
As we were walking and talking we passed through 2 carved pillars by an old church. Only later did I find that this is the halfway point on the camino from St Jean Pied du Port. I thought I was further on than that.
Sahagun is a large town so I could resupply on food and coffee.
The kitchen in the albergue lacked many pans and utensils, so I met up with Jam (West Indian, asian before emigrating to Canada), and Bob for dinner.

Thursday 8 October 2015

Oct. 7th Calzadilla de la Cueza

Day 55   10.6miles   Total 702.9

I set off at 8.30 as I was only walking to the next village. I'm taking it easy until I feel strong again.
After crossing the river the landscape was very different to before Carrion. Very flat with more tree's and less ploughed fields.
After a mile or more roadwalking the camino was along pista. Unexciting, but with regular picnic sites. At the first one, miles from any habitation, an enthusiastic little dog greeted everyone. He was well fed, I wondered if he lived there.
I walked the final stretch to my destination with Tom, the American guy with the same pack as mine.
There are adobe buildings still in use in this area, most are a neglected looking. The Albergue with the tipi had exposed adobe walls inside.
I had dinner with a guy from Finland, who is walking the camino to give himself space to think what to do with his life. He's been a professional poker player for a few years. He says he's made enough money not to have to work for a few years annd got bored with poker !
I found a quiet room downstairs in the gite all by myself for the night.

Wednesday 7 October 2015

Oct. 6th Carrion de los Condes

Day 54   6.3 miles   Total 692.3

No rain, but still the strong winds on the straight road to Villalcazar de Sirga.
The crosswind was so strong that some cyclists were pushing their bikes.
I was sweating in my wind jacket and trousers but the wind would have chilled me. After a drawn out coffee I carried on to Carrion, where I didn't intend to carry on from today.
All I wanted was a long hot bath, so I found an hostel (cheap hotel).
After a good refreshing soak I started to explore the town. I met Wilbert, the Dutch hospitalero outside a bar. His car had broken down and he was waiting to get it sorted out.
I had a siesta and lazy afternoon. I met the Zpacks Americans who I thought would be way in front of me, they were staying at an old monastery that's now a 4☆ hotel.
Back at my hostal I met JJ, a German guy I hadn't seen for a few days. A sore leg and the weather decided him on resting.
After €28 for my room, I bought salad stuff for dinner from a supermarket and improvised as I had no plate.

Tuesday 6 October 2015

Oct. 5th Villarmentero de Campo

Day 53   0 miles    Total 686

Part of my tiredness yesterday was due to getting the 'Camino Cold'. Sleeping in dormitories is not good, (Burgos was the last one for me). I decided during the night to have a rest day here.
My prevoius rest day had been in Cajarc on Sept. 2nd. It was still very windy and raining.

There was a superb spread for breakfast including home baked wholemeal bread. So different from the usual breakfasts in Spain and France. Having a rest day allowed my appetite to appear in between sneezes. I ate toast, muesli, cake, orange juice. Only instant coffee was a disappointment,
I bought coffee in the bar and people watched as pilgrims a arrived wet and windblown. A few I'd met before. I was glad to not be walking and at this wacky place.
I talked with a couple from Bulgaria today, a 1st for me. I reckon that women outnumber men 2 : 1

3rd Oct. Boadilla del Camino

Day 51   19 miles   Total 676

It's just light at 8am. when I set off with spare socks on my hands as mittens. There's a ground frost.
I feel sorry for the people who set off in shorts.
At my 1st village coffee break I remeet Stan, a Brit and Troy an Aussie. Then along came Inoa from Guernica in the Basque region, later I walk with Inoa, she's really interesting, worked for NGO's in Palestine, Bolivia and Columbia.
We stopped for a lunch break at a bar and I got to know a few Spanish people I've been seeing most days.
Inoa decided she'd walked enough for the day. I carried on to Boadilla del Camino. So many of these villages are what they are because of the Camino.
I passed 2 albrgues before going into one recommended in my guide. Whoa, lots of familiar faces and people laying around on the lawns in the sunshine amongst sculptures. A nice place and meal in the evening.
Today I met a woman from Poland and a couple from Hungary, firsts on the walk for me.

Monday 5 October 2015

4th October Villarmentero de Campo

Day 52   10miles   Total 686

I had a pleasant nights sleep on the floor in the lounge area of the albergue, yet felt tired in the morning. The 1st person left at 5.30am., and it doesn't get light until 8am ?
I decided to only walk a short distance. It was gently raining as I walked beside the canal to Fromista. I got talking with a woman from Teignmouth who was also wearing a rain skirt, mine I call a kilt. Mary wants to get into ultralight backpacking, so there was a lot of talk about gear.
Whilst in a bar on coffee break, the rain came down harder for a while. There was a roadside walk to the next village, and I veered off to walk a very seldom used path beside the river. The wind was picking up across the flat landscape. I was glad the riverside route was protected by trees.
On the last stretch a man  stopped  his van, got out and cracked open the largest, sweetest almonds I've tasted. Such a lovely gesture, he chatted away about how good it was to be walking the camino. I understood about 1 word in 10.
The Albergue I stopped at was wacky to say the least. Geese and chickens wandering about amongst a tipi, cheap tents, and sheds that were for hire. I decided to sleep in one of the tents. The tipi was more money than the albergue to sleep in.
As the wind got up to gale force several of the tents collapsed and I moved into the albergue.
The wind force was crazy, it would have been hard walking in it.
By late afternoon the Dutch hospitalero (manager) had returned from Holland. The locals put on a celebration for his return, with Cava, hubby bubbly pipe, and adults only cake.
It was funny to watch with an Austrian woman, who works in airport security.

Saturday 3 October 2015

2nd Oct. Hontanas

Day 50   20 miles   Total 657

Having to be in the albergue by 10 was a bit of a drag. Burgos was just coming alive. Right through until after 4am. revellers could be heard in the streets. In the morning the debris from drinking was everywhere around the cathedral. I had a coffee in a bar and was told it was like this every night of the week !
Once clear of the suburbs it was flat until after the 1st village, where I met Paul and Peggy. We walked together through undulating countryside that gradually rose, before dropping to a valley and the village where they were staying.
I carried on gradually ascending to the meseta, table land, a plateau that is the main feature for the next week. There are descents into valleys and up again.
At the last minute Hontanas appeared. As I dropped into the village, I stopped and chatted with a French guy who was camped with his dog. He has a push chair to carry his gear, and the dog when she's tired.
I stopped at the 1st albergue for a beer and to read about the accomadation. I looked around and decided to stay. It was new, purpose built to a high standard and only €7. I had the communal meal which was an excellent paella with unlimited wine. Needless to say a very good evening followed

Friday 2 October 2015

1st October Burgos

Day 49     9.5 miles   Total 637

I walked before daybreak with Terese and Sue 2km to the next village, where we had coffee at the bar as day dawned.
The walk into Burgos was around the perimeter of the airport, then for a few miles alongside the river amongst trees and grass into thea centre of Burgos. A lovely way to enter a city.
After dropping our bags off at the municipal albergue, I went to the post office and collected my down jacket and other bits, and a replacement carbonfibre strut for my backpack, (the original one broke during baggage handling on the flight to Lyon).
Lots of familiar faces everywhere. I had a haircut and beard trim.
In the evening I went for a meal with Sue, Christina, and two German guys, the younger one Timo is very smily.
Terese wasn't feeling well. The Irish nutters finished their camino for this year in Burgos, I'll miss their company and humour.

Sept. 30th Cardenuela Riopico

Day 48   15 miles   Total 627.5

On returning to the Albergue last night there were already 2 people snoring in the dorm, so I took my airbed and quilt and slept outside in the covered area at the rear of the building, nice !
In the morning I went to the bar with Christina for coffee and a croisant and we set off at dawn, after most folk. On the way we met up with Paul and Peggy (USA) and walked with them to the 1st village, where we met up with Sue and Therese (Eire). The 5 of us walked on to Altopuerco together. Therese, Sue and I carried on to Cardenuela Riopico and stayed at the tiny Albergue Municipal.
After a communal meal at another Albergue and a couple of beers at the bar, I set up  my bed in the communal area and slept well.

Wednesday 30 September 2015

Sept 29th Villafranca Montes de Oca

Day 47    16.5 miles   Total 612.5

The days walk was mostly parallel with the main road from Portugal and Northern Spain towards France and there were many lorries on it.
It started cold and warmed slowly.
There are a lot of people from the USA and Canada. I walked and talked with a few during the day.
On a break in Belorado the Irish women appeared and we spent a while together. They passed me when I was refilling my water bottle and were off too fast for me to catch. They checked out a Refugio unknown to me and I arrived in Villafranca before them.
Accomadation is in short supply, yet we managed to get into the Albergue municipal. Christina and Julia were here. Whilst having a drink outside the bar, the Americans, Paul and Peggy, from the day before turned up.  We'd lost contact and reconnected.
Paul and Peggy were staying at the Albergue attached to a very smart hotel. We couldn't find much to cook at the local shop, so ate at the restaurant €10.
Getting my washing in, I found my socks missing. Christina said someone had come into the dining room with them asking whose the were, earlier. Why couldn't they just have left them where they found them ?

Tuesday 29 September 2015

Sept. 27th Azofra

Day 45     13.5  miles    Total 582

The grape harvest is in full swing, tractors taking trailers of grapes off to the wineries everywhere. The landscape is all vineyards where it's not rock.
It was noticeably cooler with a fresh breeze on the mornings  walk to Najera. A pretty town because of it's river and cliffs.
On last few hundred meters into Azofra I came upon some women being fed and given wine by Spanish couple. They insisted I join them. Then Alsu, my Russian amiga and a lovely young Portugese woman joined us.
I walked to the refugio with Christina (Portugese), Alsu was walking on a few miles more.
The evening was a party, 2 Irish women and Christina being the main personalities. 8 nationalities shared a lot of Rioja

Sept. 28th GraƱon

Day 46   14miles    Total 596

I was one of the last to leave the hostel, most people leave before dawn. Either to avoid the heat of the afternoon or to make sure of a bed for the night.
The vineyards gradually gave way to ploughed fields and big landscapes.
At the 1st village I met up with The American couple, The Irish women and Christina, from the previous evening's party. I walked with them to Santa Domingo de la Calzada.
We visited the cathedral, but after a quick look around I set off again.
I read good reviews of the Donativo's in Grañon, so I went to the smaller of the 2. It was very basic, yet fine for me.
I met up with 3 other people I'd met on and off over the past week. Then whilst outdide the bar chatted with the Irish women, Sue and Theresa. They liked the sound of the Donativo's and went to the other one, mine was now full.
The other was in the roof of the church annex and people had exercise mats to sleep on. The other Donativo's donation box was open so that pilgrims, if they needed money could take instead of give !
Dinner was a shared meal at both places at 8pm. Shortly before 8 everyone was asked to go out into the street, where we met up with the people from the other Donativo. We had to sing for our supper, Spanish 1st, then Italians, English and Koreans.
Fortunately English speakers, though I met a guy from New Milton. It was great, as everyone was initially embarassed or hesitant, particularly the 5 Koreans.
The shared meals are really enjoyable
I got talking with an American couple who were delighted that I had a Zpacks backpack as well, as they did

Saturday 26 September 2015

Sept 26th. Navarette

Day 44    22miles    Total 268.5

Today is the Rioja Fiesta in Logrono, everwhere is booked, so I set off in the dark at 7am. A fiery sunrise with mountains silhouetted !  (spelling ?).
Up and down through vineyards, passing through Viana, for a coffee stop, and arriving in Logrono before midday and over 13 miles walked.
There was music blasting out for the fiesta everywhere, and crowds of people. After watching people in the main square over 2 coffees and a spinach empanada (pasty) for an hour, I headed out of the  city for Naverette.
At the end of a large lake I met up with 2 women from the Czech Republic who I'd 1st met last saturday. Whilst chatting a Spanish woman gave each of us a bunch of sun-warmed grapes, tiny very sweet grapes. These gave us a boost for the ascent to Naverrete. Accomadation was mostly fully booked, yet I got into a hostel run by French volunteers. I'm amazed how well I can communicate in French now.
I spent an interesting evening with a Korean looking Russian woman who lives in Guildford !!

Friday 25 September 2015

Sept 25th Sansol

Day 43   16.5 miles   Total 446.5

I set off at dawn and soon came tomthe winery at Irache, that has free wine on tap for pilgrims. At 7.40 in the morning I only took a dab of red wine to mark the peak of my cap. Alcohol is a bonus after a day's walking for me !
The next 5 miles or so was along a narrow earth path through woodland. A stop for coffee in Luquin and it became ploughed fields with occasional vineyards, with wooded hillsides. The last few miles to Los Arcos was just gravel track/pista.
Los Arcos and many pilgrims are sat in the square having lunch. I sat in the shade of the cathedral and had mine too.
From Las Arcos to Sansol was 6km, and I was glad of my brolly  for this stretch that dragged in the early afternoon heat.
I booked into an Albergue which had a foot soaking pool. I was content with a shower.

Thursday 24 September 2015

Sept 24th Ayegui

Day 42   15miles   Total 530

Puente del Reina is a lovely little town. Last evening everywhere I walked there was the smell of red peppers being roasted.
I'm meeting a few English people now, and ate out with a guy (Chris) from Southampton last night.
Thankfully the countryside is much nicer than the area after leaving Pamplona.
An Estonian woman gave me food  for thought when she said she was walking to Lisbon after Compostella !
It was a case of 25km(15miles) or 32km so 15miles brought me to a modern suburb of Estella. The alburgue was an extension of a sports centre, not the most attractive of places, but clean and with everything I could want. (Lidl just down the hill, with 5.5% beer at 25c for 500ml cans.)
I invited an American guy to share the food I'd bought, he bought more food, as do others. 6 of us enjoyed a pot-luck dinner.

Wednesday 23 September 2015

Sept. 23rd Puenta de Reina

Day 41    15 miles    Total 515

The day started with drizzle and it stayed all morning.
A long way to escape from Pamplona, then boring prairie type landscape, massive area's of ploughed land in the mist.
Before Pamplona it was wooded and a winding path through valleys. Today I could see the procession of pilgrims.
The path became muddy with so many people in front of me,then the final ascent to.the highest part of the day, Alto de Perdon. The descent was hard underfoot. I find it easier on my legs to descend fairly quickly, and with walking poles I passed a lot of cautious pilgrims.
It became dryer from here and soon I was in shorts and t-shirt
I arrived in Puenta de Reina (Queens bridge) just after 2pm, and booked into a hostel for €5 for the night.

Tuesday 22 September 2015

Sept. 22nd Pamplona

Day 40    10 miles    Total 500

The days are drawing in noticeably, I set off at 7.20 and it was just light enough to see the camino.
Just 10 miles to Pamplona and the last 3 were through the suburbs of the largest city on the camino.
As I was walking through the centre, a shout of 'Terry', and there was George behind me. So good to see him and Anne, they were in Burger King. After their long day yesterday, they were waiting to sort stuff out !
After they left I chatted with a young Aussie, Claire for a bit. Then after a visit to the tourist office two more shout of Terry and I saw the French Canadian couple, then the Mexican woman from last night.
After all the old French people in France it's so refreshing to meet lots of younger people. On the walk in I chatted with two women from the Czech Republic, and another young woman from Estonia. I'm sharing my room in the hostel with an Irish guy.
I posted my tent and cooking stuff home, less weight to carry (800g). Spain is so much cheaper than France. It's getting colder, less than 20 today. Most hostels have cooking facilities.
Next to find some socks. Shops here shut from 1- 5pm.

Monday 21 September 2015

Sept 21st LarrasoaƱa

Day 39    16 miles   Total 490

It was a cold night in the cloisters, there was frost on the roofes of the houses.
We all went to the hotel for coffee and to charge phones. I wasn't going to walk 37km.to Pamplona as the others were, so ssid my goodbyes, and set off in my own time.
I like to walk and meditate. There are so many people walking now it is distracting. I soon found my own space in the procession though.
The path is hard underfoot with so many people walking it. It was mainly through woodland except the last few miles that were along a river.
When I reached Larrasoana there was no accomodation available, but the shop/bar owner phoned a friend and I was collected and taken to a small refugio, just 8 of us. Agh ! I sat in a car and had a ride. Actually I didn't give it a thought ! I could happily have dossed down for the night, but I wanted a shower and to wash clothes.
So many pilgrims walking past with no luck for a place for the night. I met a Mexican woman and invited her into the hostel for the night. The owner had gone home.

Sept 20th Espinals Spain

Day 38   17 miles   Total 474

After a good night under the stars the morning brought great views of the land below. We didn't find anywhere as good as our overnight "hotel".
The morning was cool and as we ascended a cold breeze came on.
Suddenly we are out of France and into Navarra/Basque Spain. Woohoo.
Vive Espana.
  Spain and the landscape changed from high altitude grazing land to forest. Predominantly Beech.
After a few miles the route became a long steep descent into RonƧavalles.
The walk and Roncavalles was so much busier than before SJPdP.
At Burguette I managed to get money from a cashpoint - wahey.
  Once at Espinals I bought my companions Anne, George (Austrian), great guy and Jourg (German) a beer to celebrate being in Spain and solvent again.
We had dinner at the hotel, 3 courses, €10.50 and slept the night under the church cloisters.

Sept 19th 7km after St Jean Pied du Port

  Day  37    15miles    Total  457

 After a traquil morning's walk with Donny, SJPdPort was hectic with lots of pilgrims arriving for the 1st day of their camino.

I met loads of people I'd met before. I checked out the donativo, but they were full.
After getting my criancial stamped I met up with Anne, yeah ! She was walking with George an Austrian guy who'd walked from his home.
As they were going to walk on I said I'd join them. Later we met Hannah. I'd forgotten she said she'd reserve me a place at the donativo.
Earlier when trying to get money from cash points, I couldn't. As I was down to €2 I felt Ok about going on.
It was a hot steep 7km to a perfect spot to stealth camp. My companions were dubious, (Teutonic correctness). Being a blagger, I thought it was 4☆. Table and chairs, running water, flat, and fabulous views.

Saturday 19 September 2015

Sept 18th Larceveau

Day 34   14 miles    total 442

After the 1st few miles the countryside was definately the foothills of the Pyrenees. Plenty of off road walking.
At one point I took a variant of the route, marked and signposted to the village of Uhart-Mixte. ETA sprayed on a wall and place names put this very much in Basque country.
By lunchtime I was in Ostabat-Esme, where I hoped to camp.
No luck at the 1st two gites. I met Nina at a restaurant, who was despondant that she was booked into a gite but sleeping on a mattress on the outside landing. It sounded ideal to me.
After coffee and a filled baguette along came Mikele and some other French. They'd stopped to look at churches along the way.
I had no luck at other gites along the way. At Larcevau I stopped at an hotel for a beer. It was too early to stealth camp. Donny a french guy turned up, and sharing a room was cheaper than the gites along the way today. Sorted !

Friday 18 September 2015

Sept. 17th Aroue

Day 33   15 miles    total 428

After too much wine the night before, the day was a bit of a plod.
  Every day there are different aches and pains, today my feet felt battered.
After taking a short-cut I caught up with Mikele, and we walked the rest of the morning together, getting to Aroue by1pm.
The gite communal was grim, brown paint and military. The village shop had closed permanently. It was too far to go on to the next suitable accomadation.
So we walked back a km to a private gite that was brilliant.
With camping, evening meal and breakfast €20.
  I got friendly with a Danish woman, Hannah who was delighted to be able to have a conversation in English. So was Nina, a Russian woman who spoke heavily accented English and virtually no French.
It was so good to talk with Hannah, as she see's walking as dynamic meditation, as I do. Most of the French are old and conventional, so to meet a kindred spirit was wonderful. Hannah camps and still only carry's 6.5kg.
The food wad wonderful.   Although I only paid to camp, I slept in the salon area with the doors open, it was a bit hot first, but warmer than the tent, the temperature was 6 degrees in the morning. Autumn is coming on.

Thursday 17 September 2015

Sept 16th. Navarrenx

Day 32   19 miles   Total 413

So glad I stayed in the gite, as it rained most of the night.
A strange day, as a very warm ferocious wind gradually increased during the day. I saw a  metal roof from a barn on the ground nearby. Leaves and branches were thick on the ground in places. It was very hard to walk in the crosswind on one exposed ridge.
Navarrenx is a walled town and very atmospheric. The best thing about it being the gite, l'Alchemiste. It's run by volunteers, hippyish welcoming people, they wash and dry your clothes, provide a 3 course communal dinner, with plenty of wine. There's breakfast in the morning, and they ask for an anonymous donation in return.

Tuesday 15 September 2015

Sept. 15th Arthez de Bearn

Day 31    19miles   Total 393.6

A couple of days ago my phone updated all my apps and the pedometer app ate the battery, so I'm for now going on the guidebook for distances.
The highlight of the day was seeing the Pyrenees in all their magnificence.
The weather was warm and cloudy.
The route was undulating, with lots of wandering to churches and crosses.
At my 1st break a few French caught up and left before me. I looked at the mapping and saw a shorter route. Whilst having my next break, they were astounded to see me drinking my coffee, again. Then on my final break they walked past me again totally confused !  Sorry, but I'm just not into climbing hills to see crosses or wandering to see churches. I'm a walker not a pilgrim.
Needless to say I got to Arthez de Bearn ahead of them all. I booked into the Pilgrims hostel as there was no camping en-route.
Bought some good ingredients to make dinner with, then it startrd to rain.
Dave Green messaged me about transfering to the GR653, which will take me over the Col Du Somfort into Spain, and better weather.
So tomorrow, weather permitting, I'll get to Navarrex and decide whether to change Camino's.

Thank you Dave for the inspiration !

Monday 14 September 2015

Sept 14th Arzacq Arraziguet

Day 30    22miles   Total 374.6

The rain started during the night, so I packed quickly at dawn and had a coffee in a bar before setting off.
Less vineyards and more road walking all morning. The rain was inconsistant, but eased off by mid-afternoon.
Pierre walked with me after lunch and we got to Arzacq by 4. I dived into a supermarche to shop and was so hungry I ate a cold chicken curry as soon as I was out of the spermarche.
Camping was at the gite, so I had kitchen facilities, indoor seating, and a drying room for €4.

Sept. 13th Aire-sur-l'Adour

Day 29    17miles    Total352.6

After all of the rain yesterday, it was a dry start, hey, simple pleasures.
The countryside is mainly vineyards and maize. Not so spectacular, but pleasant enough.
Whilst on my 1st morning break a woman I'd shared the gite with at Figeas walked past with a man and woman. I then saw them a couple of times en-route. The guy was very friendly and French !
The last few miles into Aire sur l'Adour was along beside a disused railway.
Just before Aire sur l'Adour near a large restored lavoir I picked up a rain jacket that was dry, (it had recently rained). I left the jacket in the shelter of the lavoir.
On getting to the campsite I remet the friendly French guy, Pierre. He was staying in one of the set-up tents.
He'd found the jacket I'd left in the lavoir, and was going to go to the various gites to try and find the owner. In 2 weeks of walking 3 women had bought him dinner.
After a beer I gave him the phone no's of the gites listed in my guide. No one had lost a jacket. (next morning a woman was delighted he'd left it at the gite communal).

Sunday 13 September 2015

Sept 12th. Nogaro

Day 28   12miles    Total 335.6

The day started dry, with thunder  and dark clouds. A heavy shower gave way to light rain for a while, then stopped.
A barn complete with picnic tables and cold drinks was perfect for my 1st break.
The rain came on steadily whilst I was there, so I set off with waterproofs and brolly. As I got to Manciet the terraced seating off a stadium off a rural bullring made the perfect shelter.
The rain came on heavily, and I was joined in dribs and drabs by 18 French walkers. I stayed for 2 hours until the rain stopped.
After all the rain I took the direct route to Nogaro (the Chemin de Santiago) rather than a muddy walk off road.
The water bladder in my packed leaked and as I wasn't wearing waterproofs, I got wet in the small of my back.
The rain started again so I booked into the Gite de Etape.
There was Aldi and Carrefoure supermarches near, so I ate well.
I was the only non-French there, so didn't have a social evening. I did get some more of my book read though.

Saturday 12 September 2015

Sept. 11th Eauze

Day 27   19miles    Total 323.6

The past few days have been very humid. The day started with fog.
At a suitably placed picnic table  whilst taking my 1st break Anne arrived. Her gang is now 5 Germans. We walked together on and off until Montreal.
I wanted to push on to Eauze, and a hot shower and cold beer, they were stopping before to stealth camp.
Michael phoned ahead and booked me a bed in the gite communal.
The sun came out with avengence, fortunarely most of the afternoon's walk was in the shade. The last 9km along a disused railway track, which was soft underfoot.
After a shower, the local supermarche provided a frozen veggie lasagna and cold beers.
Most French walkers stay in Gites and eat in restaurants.
I cooked my lasagna at the gite. then drank my beer that cost 90c a can, in the cathedral square, alongside walkers who were paying €5 for a beer from the restaurant. It's a no-brainer to me.

Friday 11 September 2015

Sept. 10th Condom

Day 21    15.6 miles    Total 304.6

The night was cloudy and very warm. I woke to the sound of gentle rain on the leaves above me. Fortunatly the rain wasn't so heavy as to drip through before I'd pack my backpack.
Mikele was already packed and we walked into the town centre together, where I stopped for an almond croissant. I didn't screw my water container on properly, and it leaked out inside my pack. Luckily my spare clothes and sleeping bag are stashed in a binbag for just such events !
  Mikele was going to go to Condom 33 miles on today. As I was leaving Lectoure ,(in the rain), a road sign said 22km for Condom. After checking my mapping, I worked out a route that was only main road for a few miles. The traffic was light and I soon was on a parallel road to the main road, that just happened to be the GR65.
The rain stopped as I reached a village for a break. I am so glad to have my brolly, the handle thcks under the cheststrap of my backpack, and I can walk, protected from the rain, not bundled in sweaty waterproofs, and with my hands free for using my walking poles.
Not long after leaving the village the sun was so strong that it was up with my beloved brolly again.
Where the route was on farm tracks, I picked up a lot of sticky soil on the soles of my shoes, boring.
I reached Condom over an hour ahead of Mikele, who was very suprised to see me already there.
We camped by the river with a very nice Swiss cyclist. It was great for the conversation to be in English, as he didn't speak much French either.

Sept. 9th Lectoure

Day 20   14.2miles   Total 289.1

After yesterdays awful 1st few hours of walking, I had 2 coffees before leaving the Gite.
The days are drawing in noticably now, it's not fully light until 7.15. It was a lovely temperature for getting some miles in early.
The Gers region looks after walkers by providing a seperate, often shaded path when following a road. Safe and nice on the feet.
The countryside was growing a lot of sunflowers and sorgum, a crop I haven't come across before.
With a couple of breaks I reached Lectoure just after 1pm. The heat was beginning to build for the last few miles and reached 34 by late afternoon. I'd met the lads outside the cathedral and we chilled there with some young Germans who have been walking for 3 months. They walk about 10km a day, very laid back !
The camping was free, but with just a tap provided.

Wednesday 9 September 2015

8th Sept. St Antoine

Day 19.   17.2miles   total 274.9

A day of mostly paved walking. The 1st 8miles I was aching and tired, I reached the 1st bar, had a coffee and felt a new man - I'd bought decaffinated coffee yesterday.  I bought some proper coffee and binned the decaffinated.
The 1st 10 or so miles was on a canal path, nicely shaded by Plane trees. Then it was across country to the mighty river Garonne and uphill to Auvillar.
The lads have changed as Francois had to go home for a week, and Tarp-man, Mikele, is with us each evening now. I caught up with them in Auvillar and arranged to meet them to camp in St Antoine, at a Gite de Etape.
The Gite de Etapes are like hostels, dormitories and kitchen facilities, great for camping.

Sept 7th Moissac

Day18   16.7miles  Total 257.7

The 1st few hours are my favourite time walking, everthing is re-energised after the night.
Of course there was an ascent out of the valley.
Lots of crops in between the woodland. I realise how lacking in tree cover the UK is when I'm in Europe.
Trail magic at 2 places today. hot/cold drinks and grapes, melons, greengages and apples, all perfectly ripe. I picked up a couple of large plums that were beneath a tree, and they were the best flavoured plums ever.
I chatted with an Aussie couple over coffee at a village bar, then realised when checking my map that I'd save a few miles roadwalking the last 8 miles into Moissac. What a good decision, it was gently downhill.in the shade of Plane trees most of the way, with a grass verge to walk on. It,s just modern traffic that  has led to the path being rerouted.
To complete my pleasure of walking the main road, there was a Lidl,(a better range of food for me than most French supermarches), on the Approach to Moissac.
I met up with the lads and a few others outside the cathedral, before walking to the campsite on an island on the river Tarn.
The river's somewhat larger than when I kayaked in the Gorges du Tarn in July.

Sunday 6 September 2015

Sept. 6th Lauzerte

Day 17.  9.8miles   Total 241

It was not a good place to be camped, last night. There were cars passing each side of the campsite on and off all night, and over the road I could hear people talking until 5am.
So I started the day tired. Montcuq (= my arse in French)  was busy at 8am. with a large market setting up. The inevitable ascent was followed by walking through lovely countryside, so peaceful. At the top of one hill in a farmyard alongside some chairs were very ripe honeydew melons, for pilgrims. What Americans call trail magic. Mid-morning lack of sleep caught up with me and I had a kip in a shady spot.
After 9 miles I reached Lauzerte. It claims to be one of the prettiest medieval villages in France, there's a few ! It was windless and 27°, and headed off to the campsite. Tarp guy and the lads were heading here for the night.
A short day, but enough after 2 hard days walking.

Sept 5th. Montcuq

Day 16    21.5 miles   total 231

I walked into Cahors with a French guy who's backpacking with a tarp. After an excellent pan au raison and expensive coffee we seperated as he's a fast walker.
The exit from Cahors was over a spectacular Pont Valentre bridge followed by the steepest climb of the whole walk.
The route was easier going than yesterday's. Woodland and scrubby heathland, became almost downland towards the end of the day.
I was feeling pretty good after yesterday's walk, and passed quite a few people.
Arriving at Montcuq around 5, it was tourist office, beer at a bar, campsite, shower, supermarket.
Camped with tarp hiker from this morning.
The lads stopped 10km short of Montcuq.

Saturday 5 September 2015

Sept 4th. Cahors

Day 15   18.3miles.   Total 209.5

After a lovely night in the lavoir (communal laundry), except for the church bell, which chimed the hour, then repeated it 2minutes later in case you didn't hear it the 1st time, the 1st 3miles was road walking, but it saved 2miles.
The weather was good for walking. The Causse is hard underfoot though, so many stones. Not too many hills though.
After lunch it was warmer and the walking was consequently harder. Water points were few and far between.
The last few miles into Cahors was ridge walking that dragged on. Eventually Cahors came into sight, with a sudden descent into the city.
The river Lot surrounds the city on 3 sides.
We stopped and decided to take a taxi out to the camp site, which is off route.
When we crossed one of the bridges into the city, we came across a pilgrims info. office, where we discovered that a free bus went almost to the campsite, nice !
After resupplying with food and drink, it was a relief to have a long shower.
The lads were all in, and decided they'd have a lay-in in the morning. We were in bed by 8.30.

Friday 4 September 2015

Sept 3rd. Varaire

Day 14    13.5miles   Total 191.2

The day started with light rain, and I set off with my brolly up, but didn't need waterproof's.
The ascent was at the start of the Causse, an area of limestone with stunted trees and few water points.
After 2 hours, the lads still hadn't caught up, I came upon a welcoming rest spot. Whilst there a lot of walkers  came in one's and two's. Eventually the lads arrived, having taken a wrong turn.
We walked together for the rest of the day. Arriving in Varaire it started raining and we made our base for the night under a roofed in part of an old lavoir. The water was inhabited by 4 ducks and large carp. A great spot to spend a dry night.