Sunday, 6 September 2015

Sept. 6th Lauzerte

Day 17.  9.8miles   Total 241

It was not a good place to be camped, last night. There were cars passing each side of the campsite on and off all night, and over the road I could hear people talking until 5am.
So I started the day tired. Montcuq (= my arse in French)  was busy at 8am. with a large market setting up. The inevitable ascent was followed by walking through lovely countryside, so peaceful. At the top of one hill in a farmyard alongside some chairs were very ripe honeydew melons, for pilgrims. What Americans call trail magic. Mid-morning lack of sleep caught up with me and I had a kip in a shady spot.
After 9 miles I reached Lauzerte. It claims to be one of the prettiest medieval villages in France, there's a few ! It was windless and 27°, and headed off to the campsite. Tarp guy and the lads were heading here for the night.
A short day, but enough after 2 hard days walking.

Sept 5th. Montcuq

Day 16    21.5 miles   total 231

I walked into Cahors with a French guy who's backpacking with a tarp. After an excellent pan au raison and expensive coffee we seperated as he's a fast walker.
The exit from Cahors was over a spectacular Pont Valentre bridge followed by the steepest climb of the whole walk.
The route was easier going than yesterday's. Woodland and scrubby heathland, became almost downland towards the end of the day.
I was feeling pretty good after yesterday's walk, and passed quite a few people.
Arriving at Montcuq around 5, it was tourist office, beer at a bar, campsite, shower, supermarket.
Camped with tarp hiker from this morning.
The lads stopped 10km short of Montcuq.

Saturday, 5 September 2015

Sept 4th. Cahors

Day 15   18.3miles.   Total 209.5

After a lovely night in the lavoir (communal laundry), except for the church bell, which chimed the hour, then repeated it 2minutes later in case you didn't hear it the 1st time, the 1st 3miles was road walking, but it saved 2miles.
The weather was good for walking. The Causse is hard underfoot though, so many stones. Not too many hills though.
After lunch it was warmer and the walking was consequently harder. Water points were few and far between.
The last few miles into Cahors was ridge walking that dragged on. Eventually Cahors came into sight, with a sudden descent into the city.
The river Lot surrounds the city on 3 sides.
We stopped and decided to take a taxi out to the camp site, which is off route.
When we crossed one of the bridges into the city, we came across a pilgrims info. office, where we discovered that a free bus went almost to the campsite, nice !
After resupplying with food and drink, it was a relief to have a long shower.
The lads were all in, and decided they'd have a lay-in in the morning. We were in bed by 8.30.

Friday, 4 September 2015

Sept 3rd. Varaire

Day 14    13.5miles   Total 191.2

The day started with light rain, and I set off with my brolly up, but didn't need waterproof's.
The ascent was at the start of the Causse, an area of limestone with stunted trees and few water points.
After 2 hours, the lads still hadn't caught up, I came upon a welcoming rest spot. Whilst there a lot of walkers  came in one's and two's. Eventually the lads arrived, having taken a wrong turn.
We walked together for the rest of the day. Arriving in Varaire it started raining and we made our base for the night under a roofed in part of an old lavoir. The water was inhabited by 4 ducks and large carp. A great spot to spend a dry night.

2nd Sept. Cajarc.

Day 13.   Rest day.

I decided to take a zero (miles) in Cajarc.
The day started with thick fog  which didn't clear until mid-morning.
The lads texted me to say they were coming into Cajarc, and when they arrived they deided to finish their day early.
Not walking gave my appetite a chance to make itself felt, and I snacked all day.

Wednesday, 2 September 2015

1st Sept. Cajarc

Day 12  17miles   total 176.7

A damp start after last nights storm and an ascent out of the valley. Evidence of last evening's storm was everywhere, fruit beneath tree's, leaves and branches everywhere. Lot's of tree's blown apart and uprooted.
I'm pleased I wasn't camping. The walking was affected by trees blocking the way, that had to be climbed over or through.
All morning there was the sound of chainsaws from people clearing storm damage.
My walking routine is to stop after 2hours, for a brew and 30minutes rest, walk another 2hours and 1hour for lunch and a siesta, walk 2 hours, 30minutes break, etc. I don't get too tired unless it's really hot.
The sun appeared in the afternoon and it was a good walk today with lower temperatures than the prevoius days.
I arrived  in Cajarc which is 30km (20miles) from Figeas, my pedometer said 17 miles ! 
I met up with Anne almost straight away. She's teamed up with 2 German women, who have also walk from Germarny. They were heading on a few km to wildcamp.
I wanted a shower and needed to charge my phone, so was staying at the municipal campsite.
Catherine was at the campsite already. We camped together. Whilst I had a shower and washed my clothes, she went into town and brought back beers to go with our dinner, bless her.
Francois texted to say they spent the night in a cosy chapel. and hoped to catch up with me soon.

31st August Figeac 15.2miles walked. total 159.7

Foraging.  On the walk I get to eat damsons, plums apples pears  blackberries and grapesThe peaches and apricots haven't been ripe enough, yet!
I had a miles walk to the village and being monday the cafe and boulangerie were closed.
After a steep walk out of the valley, I stopped at a gite and blagged a coffee. Then later I had a good feed on blackberries and grapes. I love it that the trail provides.
Again I saved a few miles by walking and not going on diversions, Arriving in Figeac just after 1pm.
The only campsites were beforr Figeac or a few miles after. As the humidity was really high and thunder and rain forecast, I booked into a Carmelite gite, religious, but donation only.
After unpacking and showering I went to buy provisions and immediately met Clara, a Dutch woman I hadn't seen for 2 days. Then almost immediately Anne, who I passed when taking my shortcut. She was with 2 other German woman, and they were heading on for the night.
It was difficult to find a supermarket in the maze of medieval streets, but eventually I got everything I needed.
Then the rain started so I dived into a bar for a beer.  The rain cleared the couds, but it was more humid than before....
After dinner at the gite, I went for a drink with Clara, (Dutch).
On the way back to the gite it started to rain. We'd only just got in and the storm hit, thunder, torrential rain, and really strong winds. Spectacular.